25 Oct 2026 / The Gaucho Trail Ride: A Journey Beyond Time
In today’s Journal, Angie Solanet shares the story behind the Gaucho Trail Ride, a seven-day horse riding adventure in Corrientes, Argentina. Created almost 18 years ago, this experience combines three days of travelling on horseback through remote countryside with time spent at Estancia Don Joaquín. Here, Angie shares what makes this journey so special to her.
A True Adventure
There are journeys measured in kilometres, and others measured in moments. For me, the Gaucho Trail is something else entirely.
It is a journey beyond time.
The Gaucho Trail is a seven-day horse riding experience at Estancia Don Joaquín, with three days spent travelling on horseback through some of the most remote and beautiful countryside in Corrientes, Argentina.
Over those three days, we cover approximately 100 kilometres, riding from estancia to estancia through open grasslands, wetlands, native forests and white-sand beaches along the Corriente River.
For three days, we may not see a single vehicle. We don’t encounter other groups of riders. There are just our horses, the gauchos, the people travelling with us and an enormous landscape that seems to go on forever.
Something happens when you spend that much time away from everything.
You stop wondering what day it is. You forget to check your watch. Eventually, you stop thinking about what might be happening somewhere else.
You are simply there, enjoying the moment.
How the Gaucho Trail Began
We created the Gaucho Trail almost 18 years ago.
At the time, our guests were asking for something more adventurous. They loved riding at Don Joaquín, but some wanted to go further. They wanted to travel on horseback, spend nights in different places and discover parts of Corrientes that very few visitors ever see.
So we began exploring.
We rode through fields, crossed wetlands, followed old cattle tracks and discovered routes that connected remote estancias. Sometimes we found beautiful passages. Other times, we had to turn around and find another way.
Little by little, the Gaucho Trail took shape.
Our logistics have changed enormously over the years. We’ve discovered new places, improved the organisation and learned how to make the experience more comfortable without taking away the adventure.
But the essence of the trail hasn’t changed.
It is still a real journey on horseback, through countryside where nature has a great deal to say about which way we go.
And sometimes there isn’t a path at all. Our gauchos simply make one.
Seven Days, Three Days on the Trail
One thing I always like to explain is that the complete Gaucho Trail programme lasts seven days, but the actual travelling expedition takes place over three days.
The other days are spent at Estancia Don Joaquín, and they are just as important.
They give our guests time to settle in, get to know the estancia, meet our gauchos and become familiar with the traditional Argentine Criollo riding style we practise at Don Joaquín.
Finding the Right Horses
Before setting off, we want every rider to feel confident and comfortable.
We usually have around six possible horses in mind for each guest. During the first days, riders try different horses while our team observes their riding, their preferences and how they get along with each horse.
Some people love a forward-going horse. Others prefer a different temperament. Sometimes a horse surprises us, and a combination we hadn’t expected turns out to be perfect.
By the third day of riding, we can usually select the two horses that each guest will take on the expedition.
I think this is one of the most important parts of the experience.
We don’t just give somebody a horse and send them off for 100 kilometres. We want them to have the chance to develop a connection first.
Our Criollo Horses
At Don Joaquín, we have a herd of approximately 150 horses, most of them Criollos and Criollo crosses.
I have enormous admiration for these horses.
They are strong, sure-footed, intelligent and exceptionally well suited to travelling long distances. They also have something that you cannot teach in a few weeks: they know this land.
They understand the water, the uneven ground and the different types of terrain we encounter.
These are our horses. We know their personalities, their strengths and their little habits. They are trained and conditioned throughout the year for the work we ask them to do.
At Don Joaquín, horse riding is part of our everyday life, and the horses we take on the Gaucho Trail are the same ones we know and work with throughout the year.
During the trail, the relationship between horse and rider changes.
You begin to understand each other better. You recognise your horse’s movements, and you learn when to trust him. After so many hours together, there is a kind of understanding that develops without words.
By the end of the expedition, the horse you are riding no longer feels like the horse you met on your first day.
And that, for me, is one of the loveliest things about the journey.
Horse Riding Through 100 Kilometres of Corrientes
The three-day expedition covers approximately 100 kilometres of varied countryside.
This is a genuine horseback adventure, designed for confident intermediate-advanced to advanced riders who are physically fit and comfortable spending long hours in the saddle.
The first day involves approximately eight hours of riding. The second is around five hours, with other riding experiences possible during the day, and the final journey home is another eight hours.
It is demanding. There are long stretches in the saddle, changes in terrain and moments when both horse and rider have to work.
But there is also plenty of laughter, good food, wonderful company and time to enjoy the places we visit.
And I think the satisfaction of completing the journey is part of what makes it so memorable.
For those considering the adventure, we explain the full Gaucho Trail itinerary, riding requirements and accommodation on our website.
Day One: Into the Open Country
We leave Estancia Don Joaquín after breakfast.
Within a short time, we are riding through the enormous open spaces of Corrientes, crossing grasslands and lagoons, sometimes following the old tracks used by gauchos to move cattle across the province.
I love this part of the trail.
There is a wonderful feeling of setting off on a proper journey. We have our horses, our gauchos and everything organised for the days ahead, but there is still that sense of not knowing exactly what nature has in store for us.
After approximately four hours of riding, we arrive at a corral beside a lagoon.
And there, in the middle of nowhere, our guests discover something they weren’t expecting.
A beautifully laid table. A white tablecloth. Silver cutlery. Wine. And lunch waiting for us.
Why Such Luxury in the Middle of Nowhere?
People sometimes ask me why we make so much effort with these lunches.
For me, the answer is simple.
I love celebrating life, and the Gaucho Trail is a celebration.
Our guests have travelled a long way to experience this part of Argentina, and I want to spoil them a little.
I love beautiful details. I love setting a wonderful table. And I especially love the contrast between the wildness of the countryside and sitting down to a lovely lunch in a place where you would never expect one.
Ezequiel, who looks after much of the logistics, is wonderful at organising these moments. He loves a surprise as much as I do.
I’m not going to tell you everything we serve because I think some things should remain a secret.
But you might find homemade empanadas, lomo a la plancha, Argentine wines and cakes prepared in our kitchen at Don Joaquín.
Everything tastes different after four hours on horseback.
Especially when you are sitting beside a lagoon, miles away from anywhere.
A Safari on Horseback
After lunch, we mount again and continue into the wetlands.
This part of the Gaucho Trail reminds me of a safari on horseback.
Corrientes has extraordinary wildlife. Depending on the season and the conditions, we may see capybaras, caimans, otters, rheas, deer, antelope and an incredible variety of birds.
There are places where we can gallop through shallow water, the horses splashing as we cross the open wetlands.
Sometimes there is no visible track.
Our gauchos know how to read this landscape. They understand the vegetation, the depth of the water and the changes in the ground.
I have watched them find passages through places where, to me, there seems to be absolutely no way through.
And somehow, they always find a way.
An Estancia Suspended in Time
At the end of our first long day, we arrive at a remote colonial estancia.
I always love watching the reactions of guests when we arrive.
These aren’t luxury hotels, and we don’t want them to be. They are authentic country estancias, full of history and character.
Some have no electricity.
At first, that can seem strange to people who are used to having everything available all the time. But very quickly, it becomes part of the pleasure.
There is no light pollution. The stars are extraordinary.
We sit together, have dinner, talk about the day and listen to the sounds of the countryside.
The horses are nearby. There is a fire. And nobody seems particularly interested in their telephone.
It is a different way of living, even if only for a few days.
Day Two: Native Forest and White-Sand Beaches
The next morning, after breakfast, we saddle up again.
The landscape changes completely.
We leave the open countryside and enter areas of native forest, following narrow passages that we call picadas.
Nature grows quickly here, and sometimes the vegetation has almost swallowed the path.
Our gauchos ride ahead and, when necessary, clear the way with machetes.
Then, quite suddenly, the forest opens.
And there is the Corriente River.
Lunch Beside the Corriente River
One of the things I love most about this part of Corrientes is the white sand.
You emerge from the forest and find these beautiful, almost deserted beaches beside the river.
It’s an extraordinary contrast.
And once again, our table is waiting.
A white tablecloth, a lovely lunch, a glass of wine and the river flowing beside us.
I find these moments so peaceful.
We sit and eat, talk, laugh and enjoy being in such a beautiful place.
And afterwards, we follow a wonderful Argentine tradition.
We have a siesta.
Galloping Along the River
After resting, we saddle up and continue along the river.
When the conditions are right, we can gallop along the white-sand beaches, following the course of the Corriente River.
These are some of my favourite moments of the entire trail.
There is the rhythm of the horses, the river beside us and an extraordinary feeling of freedom.
Sometimes I look around and realise how far we are from everything.
You feel completely alone in the landscape, but never lonely.
You are surrounded by horses, gauchos, nature and people who, by this point, have already shared so much with you.
There is a sense of peace that is difficult to describe.
Eventually, we arrive at our second estancia beside the river.
Afternoon tea is waiting for us.
We rest, and depending on the day, there may be another ride before enjoying aperitifs as the sun begins to set.
By this stage of the journey, people have usually stopped asking what time it is.
The Gauchos: The Heart of Our Journey
I cannot tell the story of the Gaucho Trail without talking about our gauchos.
They are fundamental to everything we do.
Together with our guides, they prepare the horses, look after the riders and make sure everything runs as it should.
They are constantly paying attention.
Before a gallop, they check the horses and adjust the girths. They notice when a horse needs something or when a rider may need a little help.
Often, they see things long before anybody else does.
At Don Joaquín, guests can also join our gauchos in their everyday work, from moving cattle across the fields to learning how to handle a lasso.
Riding with the Tropilla
During the trail, our spare horses travel together as a loose tropilla, accompanied by one of the gauchos.
This is a beautiful part of the experience.
Sometimes our guests ride beside the tropilla, galloping alongside a moving herd of horses across the countryside.
It is difficult to explain how wonderful that feels.
The movement of the horses, the sound of their hooves, the dust or the water rising around them.
There is something very powerful about being part of it.
Sharing the Gaucho Way of Life
But our gauchos bring much more to the trail than their horsemanship.
Many of these young men grew up here. They learned to ride and work with horses from a very young age, often following their fathers into the countryside.
They are resilient, resourceful and incredibly capable.
They also have a wonderful sense of humour.
At night, after looking after the horses, they light their fire, drink mate, play cards and tell stories.
I love these moments because this isn’t a performance organised for tourists.
It is simply their way of life.
Some of the gauchos who work with us today started riding with us when they were very young.
I am particularly proud that two of them now speak English.
They have studied, of course, but much of their English has come from years of sharing experiences, conversations and laughter with our guests.
I think the Gaucho Trail has given them opportunities too.
They have become extraordinary horsemen, wonderful hosts and young men who can share their culture with people from all over the world.
And that makes me very proud.
Corrientes: Where Gaucho Culture Is Still Alive
Corrientes is very special to me.
This province has a strong identity, deeply connected to horses, cattle, water, music and traditions that are still part of everyday life.
Here, the gaucho culture is not something that belongs only to the past.
It is alive.
The Mencho Correntino
In Corrientes, we call our traditional countryman the mencho correntino.
These are people who understand the countryside in a way that comes from growing up in it.
They know how to work cattle, read the land, cross wetlands and recognise when a horse is tired or uncomfortable.
Much of this knowledge has been passed down through generations.
It isn’t something you can learn entirely from a book.
You learn by doing, by watching, by making mistakes and by spending years working in the countryside.
When I see our young gauchos riding across the fields, I am reminded of how important it is to protect and pass on these traditions.
A Land Shaped by Water
Water is everywhere in Corrientes, the beautiful province in northeastern Argentina where our family has made its home.
Lagoons, rivers, wetlands and flooded grasslands shape the landscape and create an extraordinary variety of habitats.
That is one reason why we have such abundant wildlife and birdlife.
Much of the countryside we ride through is still used for cattle rather than intensive agriculture.
There are enormous open spaces, and in many places nature still determines how people and animals move across the land.
We ride beside lagoons, cross wetlands and sometimes gallop through shallow water.
At Don Joaquín, when conditions are right, we can even swim with our horses.
And then there is the Corriente River itself, with its beautiful white-sand beaches and wonderful sense of solitude.
The Payé of Corrientes
There is a word we use in Corrientes that I think explains something about this place.
Payé.
It is difficult to translate exactly.
It can mean a spell, an enchantment or a kind of mysterious magic.
For Correntinos, payé is something you feel.
It is in the landscape, the traditions, the music and the connection people have with this land.
I think the Gaucho Trail allows our guests to experience a little of that payé.
But it is not something I can really explain to you.
You have to come here and feel it for yourself.
Day Three: Following the Bell Home
On the third and final day of the expedition, we begin our journey back to Estancia Don Joaquín.
It is another long day in the saddle, approximately eight hours, with a lovely lunch stop along the way.
By now, everything feels different from the day we left.
The horses know what is expected of them. The riders are more comfortable. The gauchos and the guests have shared three days of adventures.
And the tropilla is travelling home with us.
The Yegua Madrina
Among the horses is the yegua madrina, the mare whose bell helps lead the tropilla.
I love the sound of that bell.
You can hear it travelling across the countryside as the horses move together.
It has a rhythm of its own.
After almost 100 kilometres, that sound becomes part of the journey.
By the time we return to Don Joaquín, something has changed.
We have eaten together, ridden together, laughed together and sometimes overcome difficulties together.
We have spent nights beneath the same enormous sky.
We have shared something that is difficult to recreate anywhere else.
And there is a connection between us that wasn’t there when we left.
Eighteen Years of Stories
After almost 18 years of riding the Gaucho Trail, I have collected so many memories.
We’ve ridden through enormous storms, when finding shelter seemed almost impossible.
We’ve had to change our route because of flooding and, on occasion, swim the tropilla across water when the usual passages were inaccessible.
I remember endless gallops along white-sand beaches.
Drinks beside the river beneath a sky full of stars.
Wonderful lunches in the middle of nowhere.
And those moments when I look around and realise that we are completely alone in an enormous landscape, accompanied only by our horses, the gauchos and nature.
Of all these memories, one sound always stays with me.
The bell of the yegua madrina.
Whenever I hear it, I am reminded how lucky we are to be alive and able to experience these things.
Why Guests Return to the Gaucho Trail
We have many guests who have returned to ride the Gaucho Trail again.
Some already know the route and the places where we stay.
But no two trails are ever quite the same.
The water changes. The weather changes. The wildlife is different. Sometimes we ride different horses or have to find another passage.
And, of course, the people who travel with us are different.
Perhaps the riders themselves have changed too.
But I think there is another reason people return.
For approximately 100 kilometres, we are travelling through a part of Corrientes where we don’t meet other groups of riders.
There is no queue of horses following a tourist trail.
It is just our little group, the horses, the gauchos and the countryside.
And something very lovely happens when people share an experience like that.
Friendships That Continue Beyond the Trail
I have seen wonderful friendships begin on the Gaucho Trail. People who arrive as strangers leave as friends. Some remain in contact for years. Others continue exchanging messages with our guides long after returning home. And many come back to Don Joaquín because they feel comfortable here.
They know the people, the horses and the way we live. I love it when somebody returns and feels as though they are coming home rather than checking into a hotel. That is exactly how I want Don Joaquín to feel.
What I Never Want Don Joaquín to Lose
Don Joaquín has grown enormously over the years.We have developed new experiences, improved our facilities and welcomed guests from all over the world.And I hope we will continue to grow.
But there are certain things I never want to change.
I want us to remain authentic.
I want our experiences to be personal and adapted to the people who come to stay with us.
And above all, I want every guest to feel important.
Somebody may have saved for years to make this journey. For another person, travelling halfway around the world may be much easier.
To us, it makes no difference.
Every guest matters.
I want people to sit around our table, share meals with us, laugh with our gauchos and feel that they are part of the estancia.
I want Don Joaquín to grow without losing that feeling of family.
And I want us to protect the land, the water, the wildlife and the environment that makes everything we do possible.
Because without Corrientes, there would be no Gaucho Trail.
A Journey Beyond Time
Perhaps this is why I find the Gaucho Trail so difficult to describe.
Of course, I can tell you about the seven-day programme, the three days of travelling on horseback and the approximately 100 kilometres we ride.
I can tell you about the Criollo horses, the gauchos, the wildlife, the estancias without electricity, the white-sand beaches and the wonderful lunches beside the river.
But none of those things, on its own, really explains the experience.
It is what happens when you put them all together.
You spend so much time outdoors, so many hours with your horse and so many moments sharing simple things with other people that eventually you forget about everything else.
You stop checking the time.
You pay attention to your horse, the water beneath his feet, the people around the fire and the sound of the bell as the yegua madrina leads the tropilla across the countryside.
You find yourself completely present.
And for me, that is a wonderful feeling.
That is Corrientes.
That is its payé.
And that is why, after almost 18 years, I still believe the Gaucho Trail is a journey beyond time.
If you would like to experience this journey for yourself, discover the Gaucho Trail at Estancia Don Joaquín. We would love to share this little piece of Corrientes with you.